Refinishing, repair, water and termite damage, stairs and new hardwood, with moisture read and the cause found before any board comes up.
Roswell Wood Flooring has spent more than 20 years on wood flooring in Roswell, GA, refinishing tired oak, repairing boards lost to water and termites, rebuilding stairs, and installing new solid and engineered hardwood. Before any sander touches a floor, we find out why it looks the way it does, because the cause decides the job.
Most of the floors we see across north Fulton were laid in the 1980s and 1990s, and many are site-finished oak with plenty of life left. Others are cupped from a humid summer, soft where a leak went unnoticed, or hidden under carpet the previous owner never pulled up. We read the moisture, check the wood left above the tongue, and tell you plainly whether a floor needs a refinish, a repair or replacement.
This page covers the problems we are called about most, the refinishing and installation choices homeowners weigh, and the paperwork that comes with closings, insurance claims, HOAs and older houses. If you already know what you need, the service pages go deeper on each job.
What we do
Wood floor refinishing, repair and installation in Roswell, GA
Sanding, staining and refinishing oak, pine and maple floors, with the wood left above the tongue measured before we promise a refinish.
Engineered wood installed over slabs, in basements and on upper floors, with the wear layer and installation method matched to the room.
Board replacement, soft spot and subfloor repair, squeak and gap fixes, with new wood woven in to match the floor around it.
Water-damaged hardwood traced to its source, dried, measured and documented room by room, then repaired or refinished once readings are normal.
Carpet-to-hardwood stair conversions, new treads, risers and nosing, and stair refinishing, quoted tread by tread and matched to your floors.
New solid and engineered hardwood installed over a tested, flattened subfloor, from single rooms to whole floors, landings and patterns.
Refinishing and repairing old heart pine floors, keeping the amber patina and matching replacement boards to the floor, not a catalog.
Stain color changes for oak, maple and pine floors, chosen from samples on your own sanded floor and applied evenly from wall to wall.
Carpet, pad and tack strip removed and replaced with solid or engineered hardwood, from one bedroom to the whole upstairs, stairs included.
A fresh coat of finish over dull, lightly worn hardwood, abraded and bonded properly, for a fraction of the cost and time of a full sanding.
Hardwood, subfloor and joist repair after subterranean termites, done after treatment and priced quickly when a closing date is set.
We have worked on wood floors for more than 20 years, long enough to have seen the same floor problems return season after season in Georgia houses. That experience shows up in the questions we ask first: when the house was built, where the water came from, and what is under the boards before we decide how to fix them.
Every cupped or clammy floor gets moisture meter readings in the boards and the subfloor before anyone quotes a sanding, because a humid Georgia summer and a damp crawl space are the usual causes here, so the crown is not sanded flat only to cup back the other way, rather than treating the symptom and leaving the source.
No spongy floor gets screwed down and hidden. We open the area, trace the softness to the subfloor, a joist or the moisture behind it, and repair the cause, so the same spot does not sink again in a year rather than disappearing under fresh finish.
Subterranean termites are a fact of life in Georgia, and damaged boards are cut out and woven in with matching stock only after the pest control company has treated, so the repair is not eaten again, rather than filling galleries with putty and covering the problem over.
Never do we recommend tearing out site-finished oak from Roswell’s 1980s and 1990s building boom before measuring the wood above the tongue, so a floor with years left gets sanded and refinished rather than replaced at several times the cost.
Before work starts in a townhome or HOA neighborhood, we confirm your association’s written approval, because any interior flooring rule comes from your own declaration, so the job is not stopped mid-install rather than assuming the rules match the house next door.
Cupping is when board edges rise above their centers, and buckling is when the floor lifts off the subfloor entirely. Both mean the wood took on moisture from below or from the air. We find and fix that source before any sanding, because a cupped floor sanded flat while still wet crowns once it dries.
A spot that gives underfoot usually points to a weakened subfloor, a failed joist or long-term moisture. We open the floor to see what is actually wrong. Screwing the boards down only hides the soft spot until it spreads, while repairing the structure fixes it for good.
A musty smell near the floor often means moisture is trapped beneath the boards, sometimes feeding mold on the underside. We pull boards where readings point, check the subfloor and crawl space, and bring in drying equipment. Refinishing over a mold problem only seals it in.
A floor that feels tacky in midsummer is absorbing humidity from the house or from below it. We measure the boards against the room’s humidity and the subfloor, then recommend a dehumidifier, crawl space work or ventilation before touching the finish. Catching it early can prevent permanent cupping.
Blistered finish, hollow spots and boards that crumble at the edges can signal termite damage beneath. Mud tubes along the foundation or termite swarmers in spring are other clues. We confirm the extent, wait for treatment, and replace the damaged boards with stock that matches the rest of the floor.
A slow leak from a washer hose, dishwasher or supply line can soak a floor for weeks before anyone notices. We trace the water, dry the boards and subfloor, and measure until readings return to normal. Only then do we decide which boards can be saved and which must be replaced.
Water that comes in from a storm or a rising creek behaves differently from a plumbing leak, often soaking a lower level from below. We assess the flooring, the subfloor and any wall base contact. Engineered floors on a slab and solid floors on a wood subfloor recover differently, and we plan repairs accordingly.
Pet urine that sits on oak reacts with the tannins in the wood and turns gray or black. Surface sanding rarely removes it once it has soaked in. We cut out the stained boards and weave in new ones, then refinish so the repair disappears into the room.
Squeaks usually come from boards rubbing against loosened fasteners or a gap between subfloor and joist. Board gapping grows in dry winter months and often closes again in summer. We tell you which gaps are seasonal and which need repair, then secure loose boards from below or with face fasteners where needed.
Worn traffic lanes through kitchens and hallways show where the finish has worn to bare wood. Light wear often only needs a screen and recoat, while deep scratches and dents need a full sanding. We check how far the damage goes before recommending the lighter, less expensive fix.
A full sanding removes the old finish and a thin layer of wood with a drum sander and a grit sequence, leaving bare wood ready for stain. A screen and recoat only abrades the top finish and adds a fresh coat. We recommend the recoat whenever the wear has not reached the wood.
Oil-modified polyurethane ambers over the years, turning red oak orange and yellow. Sanding to bare wood and switching to a clear waterborne polyurethane brings back a more neutral color. We show you samples of each finish on your own floor, so you can decide how much warmth to keep.
Heart pine is dense, resinous old-growth wood with a patina that should be kept, not erased. It sands differently from oak and can gum up paper, so we adjust the grit sequence and pressure. We refinish it for what it is, often with a clear finish that lets the grain show.
When boards have to be replaced, the new wood rarely matches the old right out of the box. We choose the same species and width, weave the boards in, and test stain on old and new side by side. The goal is a repair nobody spots, not a patch matched to a catalog sample.
Many Roswell homes have red oak finished in the golden and honey tones popular when they were built. Sanding to bare wood lets you change to a gray, brown or natural tone. We confirm the boards have enough wood above the tongue for a full sanding before recommending a color change.
Pine and maple absorb stain unevenly, which can leave a blotchy, streaked floor. We use water popping, conditioners or a lighter color to even out absorption, and sample every option first. On a floor that has already gone blotchy, the fix is usually a full sanding and a different approach.
Stairs cannot be sanded with the same machines used on floors, so each tread, riser and nosing is sanded by hand or with smaller tools. We price refinishing stairs separately and treat it as its own job. Worn or cracked treads may need replacement instead, which we quote as a different job.
Pulling up carpet often reveals oak or pine in surprisingly good shape, apart from staple holes, tack strip damage and a few stains. We assess the condition, patch where the tack strip sat, and refinish. Saving hidden hardwood is usually far cheaper than installing new floors.
We connect our sanders to dust extraction, which captures most of the dust at the machine rather than letting it settle through the house. Many families stay home during the work by living in another part of the house. We plan the sequence so a kitchen or bedroom stays usable as long as possible.
Fresh floors photograph well and help a listing, but a full refinish is not always the best use of pre-sale money. Sometimes a screen and recoat or a few board replacements are enough. We give sellers an honest recommendation that fits their timeline and closing date.
Replacing carpet with hardwood can be one bedroom or the whole upstairs. We remove the carpet, pad and tack strip, check the subfloor for flatness and squeaks, and install the new floor with the right transitions. Doing the whole upstairs at once avoids mismatched color between rooms.
Converting carpeted stairs means removing the carpet and the rough treads beneath, then installing new hardwood treads, risers and nosing. We match the stair wood to the floor above or below. It is one of the most noticeable upgrades in a two-story home, and we price it tread by tread.
Open foyers, landings and balcony edges need careful planning where the floor meets railings and the stair nosing. We run boards so the pattern looks right from below and from the landing. These spaces are visible from everywhere, so the details matter more than in a bedroom.
Parquet foyers were common in the homes built in the 1980s, and many are now loose, worn or dated. We remove the parquet, prepare the subfloor and tie the foyer into the surrounding hardwood. Some homeowners choose to keep a pattern with a herringbone insert instead.
Solid hardwood can be sanded many times, engineered wood is more stable over concrete and below grade, and luxury vinyl plank resists water but cannot be refinished. We explain the tradeoffs for each room. The right answer depends on the subfloor, the room and how long you plan to stay.
Solid wood does not belong below grade or glued directly to a slab, where moisture from the concrete causes cupping. Engineered hardwood, installed as a glue-down engineered or floating floor, handles those conditions far better. We test the slab’s moisture before installing, following methods such as ASTM F2170.
Prefinished floors arrive with a factory finish and can be walked on right after installation, but they have small beveled edges. Site-finished floors are sanded and coated in place for a smooth, flat surface and a custom color. We walk through what each is like to live with.
White oak has a tighter, more neutral grain than red oak and takes modern gray and natural tones well. Wide plank floors show more of the grain but move more with humidity. We check acclimation and moisture carefully on wide boards, since they cup more readily than narrow strips.
Herringbone and chevron patterns need precise layout, more cutting and more labor than straight boards. We plan the centerline and borders before the first piece goes down. They suit entries, dining rooms and studies where the pattern can be the focal point of the room.
New wood must reach a moisture level close to the house before it goes down, or it will shrink or swell afterward. We take readings on the subfloor and the delivered flooring and let it acclimate. Following the NWFA Installation Guidelines, we also leave an expansion gap and add a vapor retarder where needed.
A termite letter, the Official Georgia Wood Infestation Inspection Report, reports signs of infestation and damage but gives no repair estimate or structural opinion. When it turns up damaged flooring before a closing, sellers need a contractor’s assessment fast. We help sellers price and schedule the floor repair against their closing date.
A termite bond is a service agreement with a pest control company, usually covering retreatment and sometimes repair of new damage. Many bonds do not cover damage that existed before the bond began, or flooring at all. We suggest reading your bond’s terms before assuming the floor repair is covered.
Many homeowners policies cover sudden water damage from a burst pipe or appliance but not slow leaks or long-term seepage. Your adjuster decides what is covered. We document moisture readings, photos and the extent of damage room by room so the claim has what it needs.
Water from outside, such as a rising creek or storm runoff, is usually handled by a separate flood policy, not standard homeowners coverage. Lower-level floors near creeks are most exposed. We document the damage and, where replacing, often recommend engineered floors that tolerate moisture better.
Many Roswell neighborhoods are governed by an HOA, and some declarations include rules about flooring, underlayment or noise. Associations formed under the Georgia Property Owners’ Association Act follow their recorded declaration. We ask you to confirm written approval where your declaration requires it before we start.
In attached homes and condominiums, hard floors can carry footsteps to the unit below, so many associations specify an underlayment. Rules come from your own declaration and bylaws, including those under the Georgia Condominium Act. We check the requirements with you and install the specified underlayment beneath the new floor.
The Roswell Historic District was listed on the National Register in 1974 and covers the mill village and the homes of its founders. The city’s Historic Preservation Commission reviews exterior changes, and its ordinance states it does not consider interior arrangement with no effect on exterior features. We keep interior floor work separate from any exterior change that could trigger review.
Normal wear and tear, such as light traffic wear, is not the same as damage like deep gouges or pet stains. Georgia landlords document damage on a move-out list under O.C.G.A. 44-7-33. We give landlords and property managers written floor estimates that fit that process.
Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint on trim, stair risers or old floor paint, and sanding it creates hazardous dust. We ask the build year and inspect painted surfaces before sanding. Where lead is present, the work follows the lead-safe practices of the EPA RRP Rule.
Old vinyl tile and the black mastic beneath it, found in some older homes, can contain asbestos. We do not sand or grind these materials without testing. If testing confirms asbestos, removal is a job for a licensed abatement contractor before any new flooring goes down.
Roswell Wood Flooring provides wood-flooring throughout the greater Roswell area, with the same crews and the same standards on every job.
Good to know
Price depends on square footage, how deep the damage goes, the number of stain and finish coats, and whether stairs are included, which we price separately tread by tread. A screen and recoat costs a fraction of a full sanding because no wood comes off. We quote after seeing the floor, because a moisture problem or thin boards change the job.
A typical sand, stain and finish on the main level runs several days, most of it waiting for coats to cure. Waterborne polyurethane dries faster than oil-modified finishes, so socks are usually fine within a day of the last coat. Furniture and rugs wait longer, and we give you the exact dates for your finish before we start.
It depends on how much wood is left above the tongue. Solid oak can usually take several sandings, while engineered floors have a wear layer that may allow one or none. We pull a vent cover or a threshold to measure before we promise a refinish, rather than finding out halfway through with the drum sander.
Solid hardwood suits most main and upper floors on a wood subfloor and can be sanded many times. Engineered wood is the stable choice below grade and over concrete, where solid boards are prone to cupping. We match the product to the room and the subfloor, not to whatever is in stock.
Yes. We trace the water, record moisture readings room by room and photograph the damage so your adjuster has a clear record. What your policy pays is between you and your insurer, and we never promise a coverage outcome, but good documentation keeps the claim from stalling.
The pest control company treats first, since replacing boards over an active colony wastes the repair. Then we cut out the damaged boards, check the subfloor and joists beneath them, and weave in matching stock so the patch blends with the rest of the room after refinishing.
We use sanders connected to dust extraction, which keeps most of the dust out of the air, though no sanding is completely dust free. Many families stay home by living on another floor while we work. The finish coats are the harder part, since fumes and drying time mean the rooms must stay closed off.
For homes built before 1978 we ask the build year and look at painted trim, stair risers and old floor paint before any sanding. Sanding lead paint releases dust that is hazardous to children and pets. Where painted surfaces will be disturbed, we plan the work under the lead-safe practices the EPA RRP Rule requires.
Usually, yes. We identify the species and board width, source matching stock, reclaimed where needed for heart pine, and weave it into the existing floor. Refinishing the whole room afterward blends the color, and we test stain on the new and old boards together before committing.
We lay samples directly on your sanded floor so you see each color in your own light, next to your cabinets and walls. A color picked from a small chip in a store often reads darker or redder once it covers a whole room. We also show you how the same stain looks on red oak against white oak.
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